REVIEW

Travel Review: Camel Market at Birqash, Egypt

July 27, 2008
Kim

Egypt's Largest Camel Market, the Birqash Camel Market is 35 km away from Cairo. The best day to visit is supposed to be Friday, when the market is most lively in the earlier parts of the morning 7am-9am.

This market used to earlier take place in Imbaba, but as the city expanded, the camel market was moved to the suburb of Birqash which is at the edge of the Western Desert.

Hundreds of Camels are sold here everyday. But this is definitely not a market for the Animal lover. The animals aren't in pitiable condition, but they could be treated much, much better than they currently are.

Camels from Sudan are brought into Egypt on the 40 day road via Abu Simbel to the market in Daraw. The unsold camels are then loaded into trucks and brought to Birqash after a 24 hour drive. Camels also arrive from the rest of Egypt and sometimes from Somalia. These camels are traded for other livestock or cash and are mostly bought for farm work or consumption.

Photo opportunities abound, if you can get the angles right since the camels are almost monochromatic in color. The traders have wonderfully charactered faces and I would have loved to be able to take close up portraits and talk to them and listen to their stories. Unfortunately as a woman, taking close up pictures of men is not the sanest thing to do. And my Arabic is too limited to have had a proper conversation with them.

As an obvious foreigner, you will be charged entry to the market. (it has a gated entry) 20 Egyptian Pound per person. Then they may try to charge you an additional 10LE per camera. Once you enter, you will not face any obvious resentment. The traders are pretty welcoming of foreigners and try to make a buck or so by posing for pictures with them. There were at least 10 other foreigners the day we visited. The only thing to be aware of is to not behave like an Animal Rights Activist and they will pretty much maintain their distance for the most part.

The market extends inside for a distance with sections cordoned off by walls for certain traders. Small single level constructions provide basic housing for traders. The roofs of which are covered with bales of hay. There are basic ramps built for loading and unloading camels from the trucks.

Obviously not all the camels are sold and some of them may not be worth carrying back. Some don't even survive the truck ride to Birqash. Their corpses are carelessly strewn about the desert as you approach the market. There are a few pictures of that at the bottom. Please don't scroll to the end, if you are squeamish.

The Drive through the Nile Delta makes you forget that you are surrounded by the largest desert in the world and is very reminiscent of the UP and Punjab fields.
The River Nile in the background is of course, unique to Egypt .





Some of the camels have one of their legs tied to prevent them from running away.



Quality check of camels like horses is done by inspecting the teeth. This one showed us his teeth voluntarily.



Unloading of Camels


Sold camels being taken away in a pick-up


Some of the character-filled faces






Warning: The pictures below are quite gory. Please do not scroll down if you are easily upset.







Death is inevitable, but I wish they could at least dispose the bodies in a less conspicuous and more humane fashion, rather than just leaving it out to the elements.

Some of the facts, come from the Lonely Planet guide for Egypt

Kim blogs on a variety of subjects on her many blogs : Egypt, Restaurant Reviews, her alma mater, Mumbai & other stuff Currently she is in Egypt among the pyramids, bedouin & camels & blogging furiously about them all.
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Travel Review: Camel Market at Birqash, Egypt

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Author: Kim

 

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#1
Aaman
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July 27, 2008
03:43 AM

Almost feel like I was there - great photography and write-up.

One often sees camels at the local meat markets, haven't tried them yet.

#2
Kim
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July 27, 2008
07:03 AM

Thanks Aaman, I can't take full credit for the pictures. Many of them were clicked by my husband. Especially the photographs of the traders.

#3
Deepti Lamba
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July 27, 2008
07:24 AM

Awesome article Kim except the last pic. I saw a camel carcass all opened up and stretched at Russell Market. I was quite squeamish.

#4
Kim
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July 27, 2008
07:51 AM

I know Dee, that is why I posted the warnings.

I thought it was necessary to put those up too, to present both sides of the market.

#5
Deepti Lamba
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July 27, 2008
08:03 AM

Oh, I agree, I knew what was coming but I still had to scroll down;)

#6
Ritu
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July 27, 2008
11:29 AM

Kim, Absolutely awesome. I loved it. I hope I can travel to Egypt someday and see these Camel fairs for myself. I am very intrigued. Do people still use camels to cross the desert in today's day and age? Are the bedouins in these areas for real or just tourist traps? How much of the traditional way of life is really traditional? How inaccessible is the desert now?

Too many questions, I know. Needless to say I envy you greatly. I look forward to other accounts of your travels

And yes, my favourite shot is the close-up of the camels face. I think it has given you a wonderful 'cheese' moment. It seems to like you :)

#7
Kim
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August 11, 2008
07:55 AM

Ritu, I'm glad you enjoyed the write up. I've been offline for awhile hence the delayed reply.

I would say Egypt is similar to India in a way that they have been romanticised and picturised in movies and books by non-local authors/film makers. While some parts may be true of some parts of the country its not like everyone is doing it. Like riding an elephant in India. There are people who do it, but they are a small minority.

Camels are still used for desert travel. Camel trips across the desert are being packaged for tourists who want something different. They are being encouraged because they are a more eco-friendly method to travel across Egypts deserts. Most of them are run by genuine bedouins, - they do exist. But a lot of them have exposure to foreign tourists and cable tv, so they are not entirely cut off from the rest of the world. Some places that advertise themselves as bedouins could be tourist traps. You have to pick and chose. For eg to climb the Mount Sinai (spectacular sunrise) you definitely need to take a guide and the bedouin sheikh (leader) of that area is authorised to organise these guides. Hence all guides are bedouin and the system operates similar to an auto rikshaw driver system in a nominated parking spot. (if that makes any sense)

for more on Egypt, you can visit my blog http://whazzupegypt.blogspot.com

I post only the best edited articles on DC :)

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