Margazhi and Music

While the Gregorian calendar begins yet another cycle of months, the Tamizh calendar is in the middle of its 9th month called Margazhi or Margashirsha in Samskritam. This month is celebrated with Music. The divinely inspired songs, Thiruppaavai, of Aandaal or Kodai as she was called are sung in the early hours of the morning hailing Vishnu. The Thiruvembavai of Thirunyana Sambandar are also sung in praise of Lord Shiva.

These great poets from the 7th and 8th centuries (as per modern historians) sing, "Oh! Sleepy head! Don't you realize the Divine is awaiting you? Wake up and get ready to meet the Divine." These songs are traditionally sung early in the mornings.

As children, we used to go singing in the streets like carolers and many a households would have made special breakfast treats for us kids. At the Vishnu temples, molten, mouth watering pongal 9made with rice and mung beans) would await us at 6 in the morning throughout this month! In those pre- TV, computer days, this was great entertainment and fun.

Traditionally, grand rice flour designs called kolam are drawn in front of homes and decorated with bright yellow pumpkin flowers. When we were young, there would be an unsaid contest in the neighborhood of getting up earlier than the neighbor from across the street to get more road space to draw the designs!! As late as last year, when I was travelling through interior Tamil Nadu, I got glimpses of these lovely designs from my train window (in the Trichy-Tanjavur section) at early daybreak.

The Chennai Music festival begins with the first day of Margazhi that falls in the middle of December. All the music "sabhas" or halls have an impressive array of Carnatic musicians to attract their annual audience. The Music Academy sets the standard for who is "in". Based on the slot that is alotted to the artist, you know how "popular" they are! I always found that part quite amusing. This is the traditional "MAR"(Music Academy Rating) like MTV ratings!! It is not unusual for performers to be irked if offered the "wrong" slot! Some snooty ones even refuse to sing when approched unless they are given the right time. And you thought you had primetime only on TV?

This is also the time to stock up on music CDs. Rare recordings of some rare musicians can be found here during this time of year. Just as we have a book fair, this is like the ultimate in music. There are good discounts too and it takes days to just rummage through the selections.

The visual arts such as dance and drama also find their place in the "season" as it is lovingly called. Mylapore Fine Arts and Krishna Gana Sabha in T. Nagar are the popular auditoriums for the visual arts. Noted dancers and theater groups put on their shows with much fanfare. New scripts are introduced as old favorites are repeated.

Some of the music enthusiasts plan their days earlier on to fit in as many programs as possible. The season pass for each sabha costs anywhere from the hundreds to the thousands. Day passes and program passes can be bought, if they are not filled to the rafters already! Serious music students flit from one place to another trying to catch their favorite musicians or program.

The morning sessions are for the serious learner. They are lecture demonstrations with very proficient scholars, musicians and musicologists who share some amazing insights into Ragas, Talas, musical forms, poetry, Bhava (emotion) etc.

The Hindustani fraternity are also included. The Music Academy has had a tradition for long to have a Hindustani vocalist perform on New Year's eve to welcome the New Year with a bang on the Tabla! When my mother was young, she has heard Ustad Allahrakha manytimes ushering in the New Year. I have heard Pt. Bhimsen Joshi and Pt. Jasraj within these resounding walls.

The women in their kanjeevaram silk sarees and the men in their dhothi/kurtas vie for space with the guys and gals in kurta/kurthis and blue jeans. It is a cool, happening space. You can show off your knowledge of music, identifying ragas and such, giving your personal critique of the performers. All those long hours of learning music finally finds a stage to shine, however temporary. Running into friends and acquaintances are common. Three and four times removed cousins, aunts and uncles are introduced. Some NRI family members troop into town for the grand season too.

This "season" has seen some rain as have several before. The hot coffees and steaming idlis and sevais (rice noodles seasoned with coconut or lime) provided by the local caterers at each event center appear like ambrosia. Friends and good music always create an appetite for good food. And the fact that one is zipping from morn to night demands that the body is kept fuelled.

Transportation is chaotic to say the least. The Chennai Metropolitain Transport Corporation runs special buses to diffuse the rush. But the ladies in the rich silks and diamonds continue to come in their chauffeur driven cars and disembark at the bottom of the stairs that lead to the auditorium, like royalty. Throw in some scooters, motorbikes and autorickshaws (many on the wrong side) and the scene is complete.

All in all, the Margazhi Music Season is something to be experiences atleast once in one's life. I wish you a musical year ahead, with harmony and peace. May this Margazhi bring spiritual awakening amidst the sleepyheads in our society who rely overtly on bombs and bullets to blow up people rather than waking them up with mellifluous music.